Today we plan on boating through the infamous Great Dismal Swamp Canal.

The Dismal Swamp Canal is famous because it was built by hand in the late 1700’s.  Historically, George Washington surveyed the area and thought it would be a great idea to drain the swamp, build a canal to connect Albemarle Sound and Chesapeak Sound, harvest the trees for lumber and then use the land for growing crops.  Sounds easily enough.  Unless you are one of the many slaves up to their waist in water digging out the canal.  The canal was finally completed in 1858.  The area was heavily logged until the 1950’s.  Eventually, the logging company donated their 49,00 acres to the Department of Interior in 1973, becoming the Great Dismal Swamp Wildlife Refuge.   The canal is the “oldest operating artificial canal in the United States” per wikipedia.

But, first we have to get up extra early to start our transit.  Elizabeth Bridge opens on demand before 7am and is closed from 7am – 9am for rush hour traffic.  We wanted to get a early start to our day so we can get across the “swamp” into VA before nightfall.  It is going to be sunny and cool all day.

Sunrise at Pelican Marina, Elizabeth City, NC

A Elizabeth City welcome sign.  We didn’t see much of the town due to the rain storm.  Maybe next time.  There are several ‘free walls’ that cruisers and sailors can dock for up to 48 hours.  If you don’t mind having no water or electricity, it is a neat idea for the city.  They get folks to drop by and hopefully spend some money in the town’s bars and shopping stores.

Downtown Elizabeth City

Before the bridge, we saw Little Mary tugboat waiting for her next load to push up and down the river.

We had to call the bridge tender several times on the radio.  Wayne was ready to blow the boat horn but I stopped him.  Just too early to blast everyone awake!!  Can you imagine how loud a HORN would sound in the early quiet morning hours?  The bridge tender finally responded and he opened the bridge just for us!  How lucky we are!

Elizabeth City Bridge at 5:53am

We are still in the Pasquotank River.  Isn’t it beautiful!?  We turned a corner on the river and saw what almost took our breath away, an awesome sunrise!  Even Wayne thought it was something special.

We quietly motored along.  It is over 20 miles to get to the actual Great Dismal Swamp.  The Pasquotank River is serpentine before and after the straight canal.  Another reason for getting up early is to be at the lock at their earliest opening of 8:30am.  We figured traveling at just under 10 miles per hour would mean that in 2 hours we would be there for the opening.  More about that later.   Hope you enjoy these reflections in the water.  We certainly did.

Somewhere along this stretch of the Pasquotank River we saw our first eagle!!  Doesn’t he have a wonder place to play?

We are getting closer!  The waterway road sign directs you so folks don’t get lost.

South Mills Lock Sign

The Great Dismal Swamp Canal has a controlled depth of at least 6 ft.  The Corp of Engineers work really hard to keep the canal clear.  There are feeder ditches from area lakes as well as locks on both sides of the canal to regulate the water depth.  At about 8:10am I noticed a sail boat coming up fast behind us.  What?  Oh dear, we were so transfixed by the scenery going slow to take it all in that we forgot the time.  We increased our speed so as not to miss the 8:30am opening.  Oh dear!!

South Mills Lock at the southern end of the Dismal Swamp

The sail boat came up about 5 minutes afterward we got to the lock.  We told the Lock Master it was coming along.  We were all patient.  There was no southbound boats so we had all the time in the world.

South Mills Lock – door closing us in.

We rose 6 feet in this lock.  Not too bad.  The Lock Master told us what to do and what to expect.  Pretty simple today.  He put us both on the non-turbulant side.

The Lock is full and we are ready to go into the Swamp!

As soon as The “Lock Master” opens the lock, he jumps into his car becomes the “Bridge Tender” in transit.  He drives to the bridge and opens it.  How interesting!  The lock and bridge work in tandem.  One man doing 2 jobs!!

Leaving the South Mill Lock slowly…

South Mills Bridge opens for us

Many folks elect to go the Route One through the Virginia Cut to Norfolk, VA because the Dismal Swamp Canal is shallow.  6 feet means without limbs, debris, or any other obstruction.  The Corp of Engineers try to keep the canal cleaned out, but oftentimes tree limbs fall into the water and sink.  If you motor slowly enough and you hit a limb it should gently go back to the bottom.  Generally, no harm to the boat.  If you have a deep draft, you might just not  be able to make it.  We had read many folks with almost 5 ft draft have no problem.  We were hoping the same for us.

Ever vigilant is keeping our eyes peeled for deer, bear, snake, alligators, and other wildlife, we also were keeping our eyes peeled for water debris.

Stump we motored by

We approached the Great Dismal Swamp Visitor center.  It is a road-side park that happens to also manage the pontoon bridge we need to go through.  The Visitor center has some picnic tables, walking trails and historical information for the road warrior.  The pontoon bridge is to allow people to get over the canal to walk along one of their trails.

The pontoon bridge swings open for us

Pontoon bridge pulled over to let us pass

Dismal Swamp Visitor Center

The next posting will have the other half of our day’s trip!